Best Mounting Pins for Medals in a Shadow Box
Mounting medals isn't just about sticking them to a board. It’s about balancing the weight of the metal against the structural integrity of the display surface. While T-pins work for most lightweight items, the choice of pin often depends on the fabric tension and the thickness of the backing material. You’ll find that using the wrong gauge pin can leave permanent, unsightly holes in high-quality display velvet.
What are the primary differences between magnetic mounts and traditional pin-back mounts for display cases?
Magnetic mounts offer a non-invasive solution by using high-strength neodymium magnets to sandwich the ribbon against a steel-backed display board. This approach eliminates the need to penetrate delicate silk or synthetic ribbons, which preserves the structural integrity of historical items. For instance, a magnetic mount allows for quick adjustments or repositioning of medals without leaving unsightly holes in the backing fabric.
However, traditional pin-back mounts remain the standard for heavy decorations because magnets can shift if the shadow box is bumped or mounted on a vibrating wall. A notable nuance involves the interaction between magnets and specialized medal components; if a medal contains iron-based alloys, the magnet may pull the medal itself toward the backing, potentially causing it to hang at an unintended angle. Always test the magnetic pull strength against the specific weight of your medal before finalizing the display.
Key numbers
| Pin Type | Best For | Material Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| T-Pins | Lightweight medals | Minimal visibility |
| Brooch Bars | Heavy decorations | Weight distribution |
| Magnetic Pins | Modern displays | No backing damage |
| Safety Pins | Temporary setups | Inexpensive |
How can you prevent long-term damage to medal ribbons when using metal pins?
Yes, you can prevent damage by using acid-free, buffered tissue paper as a physical barrier between the metal pin and the ribbon. This layer blocks the transfer of oils and metallic salts, which can cause permanent discoloration over a 5 to 10-year period if left unchecked.
What materials are recommended for backing boards to ensure secure attachment of heavy decorations?
For heavy decorations, use a high-density, acid-free foam board or a 0.25-inch thick birch plywood substrate covered in conservation-grade linen. These materials provide enough structural resistance to hold pins firmly without the backing crumbling or sagging over time. Many people assume that standard corrugated cardboard is sufficient for mounting, but its acidic nature and internal air pockets will eventually cause the board to warp and the pins to lose their grip, leading to a sagging, uneven display that risks damaging the medals.
Are there specific mounting techniques for medals that lack a standard pin or brooch bar?
Yes, you can create a custom loop using fine, color-matched silk thread to secure the medal to the backing board. By looping the thread through the medal's suspension ring and tying it to a small, hidden anchor pin, you avoid piercing the ribbon entirely and maintain a professional, secure hold.
How do you properly measure the depth of a shadow box to accommodate varying medal thicknesses?
To determine the required depth, measure the distance from the back of the mounting board to the outermost point of the thickest medal and add at least 0.5 inches for visual clearance.
- Measure the medal's thickness using digital calipers to get an accurate reading within 0.1 millimeters.
- Account for the thickness of the backing board and any mounting fabric layers.
- Add a 0.5-inch buffer to make sure the medal does not touch the front glass, which prevents condensation buildup.
- Verify the depth of the shadow box frame rebate to confirm it accommodates the total calculated thickness.
- Adjust the mounting board position if the total depth exceeds the available frame space.
What are the best practices for arranging multiple medals to ensure they remain level and centered?
Achieving a balanced display requires establishing a rigid horizontal baseline before you begin the final placement of your items.
- Centerline alignment is best achieved by marking a vertical axis on the backing board to serve as a reference for the middle medal.
- Baseline measurements should be taken from the bottom edge of the frame to make sure each medal sits at the exact same height.
- Spacing between medals should be kept consistent, typically at least 1 inch apart, to prevent the decorations from overlapping or tangling.
- Leveling can be verified by placing a small spirit level across the tops of the medals to confirm they are perfectly horizontal.
Can adhesive-backed mounts be safely used for historical or fragile military medals?
Adhesive-backed mounts should be avoided for historical or fragile military medals because the chemical compounds in adhesives can cause irreversible damage to ribbons and metal finishes. Over time, the adhesive may dry out, turn yellow, or become fused to the fabric, making removal impossible without tearing the fibers. For example, using a self-adhesive tape to secure a ribbon will likely leave a permanent, gummy residue that attracts dust and degrades the silk weave.
The only exception involves the use of specialized, reversible archival mounting corners made of Mylar. These allow you to hold a medal in place by its edges without applying any glue directly to the object. If you must use any form of adhesion, make sure it is specifically labeled as acid-free and pH-neutral, though even then, physical mounting methods remain the safer choice for long-term preservation.
Mistakes to avoid
- Using standard sewing pins. These are too thin and will bend under the weight of a medal, causing the display to tilt or fall. Use stainless steel T-pins instead.
- Piercing the ribbon directly. This creates permanent damage and fraying over time. Always pin through the fabric backing or the medal's original brooch bar.
- Over-tightening the pins. This pulls the backing board inward and creates puckering in the fabric. Keep the pins snug but allow the fabric to remain flat.
What tools are necessary to achieve a professional, museum-quality finish when mounting medals?
Professional mounting requires a set of precision tools to handle delicate components without causing scratches or structural fatigue.
- Tweezers with nylon-coated tips are necessary for positioning small pins or medals without marring the metal surfaces.
- Calipers allow for precise measurements of medal thickness to make sure the shadow box depth is sufficient for the display.
- Magnifiers help you inspect the weave of the ribbon for existing damage before you begin the mounting process.
- Awls provide a clean, narrow entry point when you need to create a pilot hole in the backing board for thicker pins.
- Levels make sure that your final arrangement remains perfectly horizontal and centered within the frame.
Selecting hardware for lasting displays
Choose stainless steel pins to avoid long-term rust issues that occur with cheaper, nickel-plated alternatives. Test your layout on a scrap piece of backing material first to make sure the pins hold the weight of your specific medals before finalizing the arrangement.