Should Beginners Use Individual Track Links for Model Tanks
Scale modeling is a hobby of patience, but individual track links test that limit early on. While these links provide the most realistic sag and drape for armor models, they introduce a high risk of misalignment. Most kits include hundreds of tiny plastic parts that require careful sanding and glue application. If you aren't prepared for a multi-day assembly process, these tracks can quickly turn an enjoyable project into a frustrating chore.
At a glance
| Track Type | Difficulty | Realism | Assembly Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rubber Band | Low | Moderate | 15 Minutes |
| Link-and-Length | Moderate | High | 2 Hours |
| Individual Links | High | Very High | 6+ Hours |
What are the primary differences between link-and-length tracks and individual workable track links?
Link-and-length tracks use pre-molded sections for long runs and single links for curves, whereas workable individual links require every pin to be articulated. While link-and-length systems involve roughly 40 to 60 parts, a full set of workable individual links can exceed 200 separate components requiring careful mechanical assembly.
How does the assembly time for individual track links compare to rubber band or vinyl tracks?
Individual links demand significantly more labor than rubber band tracks, often requiring 10 to 20 times the assembly time to make sure each link remains articulated or properly positioned.
| Track Type | Average Parts | Assembly Hours |
|---|---|---|
| Rubber Band | 2 | 0.25 |
| Link-and-Length | 50 | 2.0 |
| Individual Fixed | 210 | 6.0 |
| Individual Workable | 220 | 10.0 |
Use these estimates to gauge your available hobby time, as individual workable links can easily consume an entire weekend of focused effort.
What specific tools are essential for cleaning up and assembling individual track links?
You need a sharp side cutter, a high-quality hobby knife with a fresh #11 blade, and fine-grit sanding sticks to remove the attachment points, known as nubs. Many beginners assume that the plastic parts will fit perfectly without sanding, but every link usually has two or more attachment points that must be flush to prevent gaps. If you don't clean these nubs, the tracks will bind, look uneven, and refuse to sit flat on the drive sprockets or road wheels.
Are there specific skill levels or modeling experience thresholds recommended before attempting individual track links?
No, there isn't a strict certification, but most hobbyists find success after completing at least 3 to 5 standard armor kits. This experience helps you develop the patience required to handle the 200-plus tiny parts without rushing the process or damaging the delicate track detail.
What are the most common pitfalls beginners encounter when working with individual track links?
The most frequent errors involve poor preparation and impatience, which lead to tracks that either break apart or fail to fit the tank's suspension.
- Attachment nubs: Failing to sand these clean prevents the links from sitting flush, creating an unrealistic, jagged appearance along the track run.
- Glue quantity: Applying too much liquid cement causes the plastic to soften, which often fuses moving links together and destroys the intended articulation.
- Alignment drift: Allowing the track to dry without a guide often results in a crooked run that looks visibly twisted once mounted on the vehicle.
- Tension issues: Miscalculating the total number of links results in tracks that are either too tight or hang with an unnatural, excessive gap.
How do individual track links impact the overall accuracy and realism of a scale model?
Individual track links provide superior realism by allowing the modeler to replicate the natural weight and drape of real steel tracks. On a Sherman tank, for example, individual links allow the tracks to contour perfectly over the top of the return rollers and sag realistically between them, a look that stiff rubber bands simply cannot replicate. This level of detail elevates the visual impact of the running gear, which is arguably the most complex part of a tank’s exterior.
However, this realism is only achieved if the builder maintains perfect alignment throughout the assembly. If the links are slightly misaligned, the tracks will look like a broken, jagged mess rather than a heavy, functional component. A nuance to consider is that on some tanks with side skirts, such as the Panzer IV, the tracks are largely hidden, making the extra effort of individual links less visible than on an exposed vehicle.
What techniques can be used to ensure individual track links remain aligned during the drying process?
You can maintain perfect alignment by using a rigid jig or a straight edge to guide the links while the adhesive cures.
- Wooden blocks: Placing a flat, straight piece of wood against the outer edge of the tracks keeps them from bowing during the drying phase.
- Masking tape: Applying a strip of low-tack tape to the back of the links holds them in a straight line while you apply the cement.
- Drying time: Allowing the glue to set for at least 30 minutes prevents the links from shifting when you eventually wrap them around the wheels.
- Sprocket teeth: Fitting the tracks onto the drive sprocket while the glue is still tacky makes sure the pitch of the links matches the sprocket spacing.
Is the cost-to-benefit ratio of aftermarket individual track links justified for a first-time builder?
Purchasing aftermarket tracks for a first project is rarely justified, as the cost often exceeds the price of the base kit itself. You are better off spending those funds on high-quality paints or weathering supplies that improve the final finish.
| Item | Cost Range | Value for Beginner |
|---|---|---|
| Kit Tracks | Included | High |
| Plastic Aftermarket | $20-$35 | Low |
| Metal Aftermarket | $40-$70 | Very Low |
Compare these costs against your total budget to make sure you aren't overspending on components that require advanced skills to assemble correctly.
Mistakes to avoid
- Using too much glue. Excess cement melts the plastic and ruins the fine detail on the track faces; apply only a tiny amount with a needle or fine tip.
- Ignoring the sag. Tanks have heavy tracks that hang between return rollers, so don't glue them in a perfectly straight line or the model will look like a toy.
- Removing links too early. Keep the tracks on the sprue as long as possible to avoid losing tiny parts that are easily swept away or vacuumed.
Building Your First Armor Kit
Focus on completing a standard kit first to build your confidence with basic construction techniques. Once you have a few successful models finished, you can upgrade to individual links to add that extra layer of realism to your work.